Just why would anyone want a paddock? Paddocks are a great way to allow your horses to stay outside while giving their pastures time to recover from their grazing and help the grass rejuvenate.

Having a paddock is as essential to your horses’ welfare as a dry stables or barn is, a good paddock also has the advantage of being a great way to help your horses lose weight - sometimes horses need to spend some time in the diet pen.

To have lush green pastures you need to make sure that your horses are kept out of it for a while so the ground and grass can recover. All pastures need a period of rest to allow the grass to rejuvenate. We normally stick to the rule of anything below three inches and it’s time to let the grass recover - there is some science behind this; When grass is below three inches it loses the majority of its nutrients because when it dips below this crucial level the grass begins to die. Should it die out completely then you are left with bare patches of dirt and earth.

For both horses and horse owners, mud is a huge pain. We don’t like it because it makes a mess and is a pain to clean and horses don’t like it because it contains bacteria and other organisms that can cause infection and disease to spread. The slightest scratch can become infected when exposed to mud and dirt.

A great paddock offers good paddock will be lush and green with plenty of room for your horses to run about and be free.

Your horses should be confined to their paddock during the winter and early spring when the grass plants are dormant and the soil is soggy. Once summer rolls around then you should use your paddock only when the grass is close to the three inch mark. Horse paddocks are also extremely useful if you need to separate horses.

Every good horse owner knows that there are three main things that you must provide for your horse to keep it healthy and well; they are clean water, good quality horse feed and a regular de-worming program.

The main types of parasites that affect horses are worms and in particular bloodworms which lay over 100,000 eggs in a single day; see why a good de-worming program is vital to your horse’s health? Worms and parasites can make your horse poorly and while it might look fine and well - inside your horse could be suffering from tissue and organ damage. Once again - a good parasite control program is vital.

Worms can’t be spotted in your horses manure and to see them you will need to take a manure sample to the vet who will examine the manure under a microscope. After counting the number of eggs and assessing the type your vet will then be able to recommend a de-worming method suitable for your horse.

So what are the big four ways of de-worming a horse? They are oral paste syringe, oral liquid syringe, nasogastric tube and a feed supplement. Adding a supplement to your horses food probably isn’t a good option as in my experience horses won’t eat food if they smell something not right; this hails back to their natural state where they wouldn’t want to eat something rotten and risk illness. A nasogastric tube is also not a good option and can only be administered by a vet.

It is vital when using a de-worming product to give the correct dosage and administer it at the same time every day for normally 6 to 8 weeks. Please note that foals will differ and you should consult the label for directions.

How to you administer the de-wormer?
To make sure they do swallow the dose, you can do one of two things - insert your thumbs into either side of their mouth to make them open their mouth and swallow the paste or liquid they were holding in their mouth, or put your hand under their chin and tip their head up so they must swallow.

Dee writes:
I’ve had my horse for about 5 years now. And when he used to buck I’d do what they told me to do in college which is run him in the round pen until he didn’t even want to move any more almost then I get on and ride for a I’ll and get off. But the last few times I got thrown off I landed on my head and got concussions and when I try to run him afterwards I can’t for too long. What do I do in these cases?

Dee, you ask a great question and we might suggest:

1) wear a helmet (I’m guessing you’re already doing this)
2) could the horse be in some kind of pain? I’m told horses buck, not usually to be ordinary but rather as a result of something that’s uncomfortable to them. If the saddle and saddle page are properly fitted and you’re riding the horse properly, perhaps the reason is some kind of discomfort or pain that is otherwise not evident.

Moonshine reared up and dumped me off once and it was a pretty scary experience, not to mention dangerous. Please do research why your horse is doing this for your safety and those around you. Let us know what you find, please.

You ride with your reins short enough to allow the horse to have freedom of its head but short enough that you can pull on one rein quicky but smoothly. This disengages the horse’s hind quarters and he won’t be able to buck. Then school him in circles quietly making move his ribcage and shoulders because you have your inside leg cueing him over. Release your leg pressure while keeping his nose bent towards your knee he or she will stop when ready to think and relax. Then allow him to walk forward.

Some horses are actually scared when they pick up too much speed. Your horse may lack the balance required. Work slower on increasing and decreasing circles to help the horse learn good self carriage. Slow and steady movement with great control is often overlooked by amateur riders. If your horse can’t do an exercise slow he certainly can’t do it fast.

Take your time, relax, enjoy!

The riding helmet of today has the sole purpose of safety. Now don’t get me wrong, by no means are they un-stylish but they are hardly oozing designer style are they?

The helmet itself has an outer layer of plastic, which resists impact and prevents injuries in case of a fall. However, some helmets are designed with a cloth covering the shiny plastic in order to make the helmet look more attractive.

The brim of the helmet is designed to protect the eyes of the rider form the harsh glare of the sun. It also makes the helmet more attractive in terms of design. However, the brim is not made of the same materials as the “shell” of the helmet. Rather, it is designed to crumple during a fall. This makes the helmet safer in event a rider lands on the brim.

The inside of the helmet is designed with both comfort and safety in mind. Added padding makes sure that the helmet takes the brunt of the impact in case of a fall. The design is also very sport-specific: one of the reasons why an equestrian helmet is easily recognizable.

The design of the helmet makes sure that the whole head is protected. This is unlike bicycle or skating helmets, which focus the protection in the front and back of the head. It is also designed with the comfort of the rider in mind, with ventilation and positioning factored into the overall aesthetics.

There are many variations on the equestrian helmet based on the competition. Horse racing jockeys, for instance, wear helmets that are brimless and covered with a cloth matching the colour scheme of their uniforms. Traditionalists frown upon the spreading use of brilliant coloured helmets, but more and more people find the colours black, brown and grey boring.

There are also some varieties of equestrian helmets today that have been adapted to more “western” designs. These helmets, however, are yet to be embraced by riders in rodeos (where they are obviously more needed).

Standardization varies form country to country. However, a rider who joins a competition must have a standard helmet or that rider will not be allowed to compete. People who have performed a “conformity assessment” judge whether the helmet is up to standard

The conformity assessment is a series of tests that show how safe the helmet is. Some assessments involve various tests that simulate a rider falling from a horse and even getting kicked by a horse in the head.

While the helmet is not a legal requirement when riding out with friends it is common sense to wear one. Most riding schools wont let you anywhere near a horse without one. They may sometimes be hot and yes sometimes they are uncomfortable but at the end of the day isn’t life worth it?

First let’s look at the horse.

When looking for a horse you should be willing to travel around the country. Even though there are thousands of horses for sale every month throughout the UK; to find the perfect horse you might have to travel a little.

So what other factors should you keep in mind?

For me personally recommendations are always a strong indicator of a good horse. In the past I have been to horse shows and competition to find potential horses to try to gather as much information on the horse that I am looking to buy as possible.

I like to know:

• If the horse has a current passport.
• How old the horse is
• If the horse is calm or skitish
• If the horse is well behaved.
• Has the horse had all it’s vaccinations.
• Is the horse healthy
• Does the horse hack out well?

Like buying a car you don’t want to show your cards too early. Take a step back when viewing a horse. Don’t fall for a well groomed horse and remember not to judge a book by its’ cover.

Is the horse right for what you want to do? No point in buying a race horse for show jumping.

Is the horse happy to be groomed and tacked? Touch his face to see if he is placid.

Watch the current owner - how does he react around the horse? Do they look nervous like they are trying to get rid of a problem horse or are they very familiar with the horse and know exactly what it’s going to do?

If you can try the horse - how does the horse respond to cars and traffic, how does it jump and trot?

If you are happy about the horse don’t buy straight away, arrange to make a second viewing.

My biggest tip is that if you don’t feel confident you are buying exactly what you want then don’t buy it. We all get buyers remorse but if you get a little warning in your head or heart before you buy then walk away. Don’t let the current owner pressure you into buying a horse if it doesn’t feel right.

Draw up a list of details about your future horse and get it signed by the current owner so you have confirmation that (if it is shown as healthy) there are no existing health problems. If you have something in writing it gives you the ability to return the horse.

If you enjoyed this article you might be interested to read our other horses and ponies for sale article.

Tip Number One: Budget. I can’t stress this enough. Budget, budget, budget! I have heard some real horror stories of people who set out to spend a few thousand pounds on a horsebox and end up spending three, even four times over their budget and ending up with some real financial problems. Remember to factor in maintenance, service and spares into your budget.

Tip Number Two: Research. Find out as much as you can about any horsebox that you are interested in. Again this can’t be stressed enough. So just what should you be finding out about?

• How many horses can it carry - you don’t want any surprises and should know an exact number.
• What is the flooring like? - Is it rubber matting or is it wood or something more solid? Are there any holes under the floor covers?
• Is the horsebox easy to drive? Is reversing going to be a lot of work?
• Does the box have a tack locker, this might not be something that everyone is looking for but it is important that you get the perfect horsebox.
• Condition of the vehicle - are the tires new or balding, do the breaks squeak?
• How heavy or light is the horse ramp, can it be worked by you alone or does it need a couple of people to lift and secure it?
• What are the living conditions like? Is there plenty of space?
• Are the partitions solid? Does the box have good ventilation?

If you are satisfied with most if not all of these questions then you could be on to a winner. So where do you go next? Well you want to test drive the vehicle, especially if it’s a second hand horsebox. Think about your animals and how they would fit and find the horsebox.

Tip Number Three: Don’t rush your review. As with any huge purchase you don’t want to splash out only to find that what you thought was your dream buy turns out to be a nightmare. Check, check and triple check. Test everything. Test the ramp, test the tyres, check how the horse wagon drives. I am pretty anal about checking when it comes to buying a new horsebox. I even check electric windows and sunroofs.

Sit in the cab, how does it feel? Do you like driving the vehicle? I am luck and served my time as a mechanic so I know the sound of a bad engine when I hear it but does everything seem ok to you or is there a strange knocking noise that you just aren’t sure about. Check the service history (always a good sign).

If you are still happy that this horsebox isn’t a lemon then it’s time to start thinking about price. Always go a little lower than the asking price and work up (you don’t need us to tell you how to haggle).

If you are putting down a deposit then make sure that you get something in writing stating what you have paid, what is left to pay and the day of collection.

I hope you have found this article to be useful and find it a useful guide to buying a horsebox.

The short days and reduced sunlight can also have negative impact on our horses, and maintaining their conditions, fitness and wellbeing is much harder to achieve at this time of year. Circulation tends to be a bit sluggish, and mood can be low.

If there is one product that has proved more versatile than any other to help banish the winter blues, it’s Equine SunSwitch. Its unique adjustable heating technology powered by Philips makes equine management easier and promotes the health and welfare of our horses. It produces a very natural form of heating just like the sun and horses just love basking under it.

SunSwitch is a modular system with short wavelength infra red heaters, timers and controllers placed exactly where you need them for affordable custom designed drying facilities or solarium’s. Shore wavelength infra red heat is thought to improve circulation and digestion and stimulate the production of red blood cells. By increasing the flow of blood to the reproductive organs, and producing a sense of wellbeing, this type of warmth is believed to increase fertility in mares and stallions, and perk up sickly or convalescent animals.

Short-wavelength infra red heat is readily absorbed into the muscles and can safely stimulate and facilitate the repair of damaged tissue. Horses warmed under a solarium prior to exercise are less likely to suffer from the strains and often occur when setting off in the cold. If you groom and tack up under SunSwitch you and your horse will be warm and well prepared.

Equine SunSwitch heaters are completely enclosed and impervious to dust and water, so they are perfect for wash down areas indoors or out. With low running costs, they can be added to existing stables or barns, with continued normal use, and are great for drying wet rugs and horses. Champions of the system in the UK and abroad include owners of elderly horses, livery yards, studs, veterinary clinics, competition yards and the Hong Kond Jockey Club.

For more information on the SunSwitch visit the UK website at Equine SunSwitch.

There are literally thousands of horses and ponies for sale every month and horses for sale in the UK is becoming more and more popular.

The horse has stopped being seen as a tool and is now seen as a great recreational past time. However with the current economic climate as it is more and more people are looking to sell their horses. Now is a great time to buy a horse simply because of the number of adverts out there.

Much like cars, horse prices are being forced down to attract potential buyers, a horse that might have cost £9000 before can now be found for much, much less. However (keeping with the car analogy) the cost of keeping a horse is rising, hay, shoes and saddles have all gone up in price.

So how do you pick up a bargain when searching for a horse for sale? We have listed some great searches to type into Google to help you with your search. We know that our website won’t always appear but we don’t mind, we just want you to find the best horse possible.

Here are some great ‘horse search’ queries…

horses for sale uk
horses and ponies for sale
horsesforsale
horses for sale in Cornwall
irish horses for sale
horses for sale in Kent
horses for sale in Yorkshire
horses for sale in Wales
horses for sale in west Yorkshire
new forest horses for sale

By narrowing down what you are looking for you will have more success in finding the right horse for yourself. For a lot of people it’s also important to add the area that you are searching in (unless of course you are willing to travel to find your dream horse).

The future’s online.

These days it’s so simple to put an advert online. There is no messing about getting the photo suitable for print, no waiting for the next publication of the magazine to see your advert, heck there isn’t even the need to speak to anyone.

Here at HorseSearchers the longest you will wait to have your advert published is the time it takes you to refresh the screen. We are pretty confident that with the right connection you could have your advert live in less than 30 seconds. Our unofficial research has shown that it often takes 30 seconds to get through to a conventional magazine when wanting to place a print advert.

Ponies For Sale
More and more people want to buy a horse as a long term investment which is why ponies for sale will always be a popular search. If you buy a young horse you are going to have him or her as a friend for life. The bonds that people build with ponies are like those that you build with a family relation. When you buy a horse they don’t just become a pet - they become a part of the family.

How to sell a horse online
Once you have signed up and created your account you can just click the ‘place a new advert’ tab on the top menu and you will be taken to our simple advert placement page.

Our motto here at HorseSearchers is K.I.S.S or keep it simply stupid - we like to think even our granny who has never used a computer in her life could place an advert within minutes on our site (not that she has any horses to sell).

Over the coming weeks and months we are going to be running a guide to horses and ponies for sale where we aim to provide you with tips ranging from how to detect a horse sale scam to looking after your horse once you have bought him.

Image By R P Marks

If any of these describe your horse, then you’re dealing with bad horse behavior. While each of these problems can have their own specific solutions, it turns out that by applying some very general but effective horse training principles, we can go a long way toward eliminating all of these problems.

When it comes to horse behavior, many problems can be reduced to one of two issues with the horse. If a horse is acting badly he is either:

1. Afraid (acting out of fear)
2. Dominant (acting in a way that disrespects you)

We can get around both problems by being an effective leader for our horse. If we are a strong and effective yet compassionate leader, our horse will not be afraid because he knows he can trust us. And if we are a strong and effective leader, a dominance-minded horse won’t be naughty with us. This can be done with proper ground training.

These days there are a myriad of ground training techniques. But its possible to identify a few key items you should be using on every horse that will help establish leadership. Here are five key methods that produce all around general results regardless of the type or horse you have or his disposition, or what type of “bad horse behavior” he is showing:

1. Lead your horse properly. When leading a horse on the ground, you’re not just walking from place to place-you’re using body language to communicate with your horse on multiple levels. By leading him properly, we can show the horse that we are a confident leader to be trusted-and someone that he must follow. A confident leader is one worthy of being followed-this helps build confidence in the horse that is afraid and shows a dominant horse that he is not the leader-you are.
2. At-Liberty Round-Pen Training. A great way to become a leader for your horse is to utilize at-liberty training in the round pen. By mimicking the behavior of the dominant horse in the herd, we can establish leadership in a way that not only speaks to the horse in a way he naturally understands, but in a way that gets rid of many problems like crowding, balking, being hard to catch, kicking, and biting.
3. Back Your Horse Up. Yes, backing up is a simple exercise, but it can be made challenging as well as basic. Not only that, its a sure fire way to build up trust with your horse, and to also show leadership by asking him to walk backwards where he can’t see.
4. Flexing. By practicing flexing on the ground, you train your horse to respond lightly to the reins and teach him how to respond to an emergency stop.
5. Get and Keep the Attention of Your Horse. If you’re the trusted leader of your horse-he is going to pay attention to you at all times. Simple exercises can be performed with your horse during groundwork training that make this automatic.

Building a solid horse training foundation with groundwork will allow you to eliminate fear, and prevent a horse from dominating you. by putting in some extra effort now, you can have a sfae and fun riding experience later.

When looking for a working hunter the first thing we look for is what we would describe as a nice stamp of a horse or rather good posture, good straight movements and good eyes and features. I personally like Irish horses that are true to type for their class and I don’t tend to go for foreign horses. In terms of age, I like three year olds, rising four, just broken and being ridden. For less experienced riders, I would recommend a minimum of a six to seven year olds who have seen the world a bit.

Personally I believe it’s important to buy a good looking hunter because in working hunter competitions looks do count. Your horse’s mane should be plaited, heels and whiskers should be trimmed and tails should be pulled. Your horse’s coat should look clean and shiny. Plaiting can be used to enhance the neck by using large or small plaits. If your horse has a skinny neck, then opt for big plaits and for large necked horses, go for small plaits. I use Groomers products and cannot recommend their Plait ‘n’ Go enough for keeping plaits tidy.

I always use a breastplate martingale and even a standing martingale on the younger horses. These are allowed. However, don’t be using a five point breastplate as these cover up the horse’s conformation and if your saddle fits correctly, then you shouldn’t need to anyway.

Fitness is another key issue with working hunters; Fitness really depends on the age and experience of the horse in question. It’s crucial to build up the fitness levels before we start any heavy schooling. To build up fitness, we hack out doing quite a lot of walking and trotting up hills - keeping the horse’s head carriage very low while trotting up hills helps them to use their shoulders and stretch under the saddle. I like to keep variety in the work we do for all of our horses. We hack out, hunt and school at home. When schooling, we make them understand that this is the serious part of their training and introduce a variety of exercises and jumps according to their level. The older horses have far less schooling at home and spend more time hacking out.